[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by JSH

My Cwa150 is in the mail, thx

[ZLElvira]

This is a fun thread!! It has definitely been exciting to see the engineering we all enjoy to make our cars better!!

On my car, the focus is road racing... so everything is about cooling the SC system with airflow management coupled with coolant/flow/pressure management. Too big of a pump will certainly lead to not enough saturation by the heat exchanger to remove the BTUs needed to effectively keep the MATs down to stop robbing timing/power from the engine. I'm not going to add 2-3 tanks to band-aid a poorly designed system... you do not see multiple tanks on the ZR1 with 1064hp on 93oct pump gas!! What you do see, when you get to see one is a single expansion tank JUST LIKE the one I put on my ZLE so the pump can always have a pressure inlet and zero cavitation... AND, if you consider that system runs from the Mid-Engine twin heat exchanger bricks to the front of the car's HX and back again.

Gabe, I applaud your getting CSF to make an Aux HX with ORBs instead of just the 5/8" quick fittings but their tanks are junk. I pony'd up and bought ONE just so I could see that it doesn't fit the OEM bracket worth AF and is it really worth $450+ just to get TWO MORE cooling tubes? A real upgrade would be to go to a bar & plate design, dual-bypass and have the pump pickup from the bottom of the cooler, not the top (heat rises). I guess I will make those too!

BTW, later today I will have a short video on my YouTube channel featuring my new SC Main HX which is now the largest capacity unit, fits within the OEM brackets and a true bolt-on. It will yield 100% area saturation and features a topside port to eliminate all air automatically with plumbing installed as I designed.

[Camfab]

Hey Dave, looks like you’re on to something. When you say you’ll make your own units, are you a heat exchanger manufacturer, or do you mean some one will make them for you. I was curious because you said the CSF units were junk. Good luck.

[Joshinator99]

This discussion is about pumps so it would be better if we stayed in topic. Talking HXs should have it’s own thread…it will need it lol.

[Dmf209]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

It’s the CWA150, not the 400. I run the 150. It’s a high head pump and able to overcome a lot of resistance. It’s a nice pump. It’s only a 10 GPM pump if the pressure drop matches up with that point in the pump performance curve…so it may very well be *but* without pressure gauges in the system on the suction and discharge of the pump you don’t actually know that.

I don’t believe a 400 will live a long lifespan in our application. It’s designed to be an engine main coolant pump so high flow and low head. I actually bought one this year and looked it over then changed my mind about running it. It’s 1 1/4” inlet which would be difficult to run in our cars, even 1” would likely lead to pump cavitation. And the flow rate is so crazy I’m not sure the temperature transfer would be that good. Just my 2 cents… but I design hydronic systems for a living lol…

FYI that pump is about $200 if you buy it from Tecomotive…! $489 is crazy.

Josh, I am looking at the CWA150 on the tecomotive site. Is the pump plug and play...does it already have the GM style connector on it or is there some type of harness or pigtail I will need? I am hoping to use this pump with a 1 gallon tank I got from dedicated motorsports, with an MHX-248 heat exchanger from Improved Racing. This is for a LT4 swap i am putting in my 75 c10. The motor came from a wrecked 2020 zl1. My mods will be e85 and tuning, twin zl1 pumps, and possibly an underdriven pulley. thoughts?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Dmf209

Josh, I am looking at the CWA150 on the tecomotive site. Is the pump plug and play...does it already have the GM style connector on it or is there some type of harness or pigtail I will need? I am hoping to use this pump with a 1 gallon tank I got from dedicated motorsports, with an MHX-248 heat exchanger from Improved Racing. This is for a LT4 swap i am putting in my 75 c10. The motor came from a wrecked 2020 zl1. My mods will be e85 and tuning, twin zl1 pumps, and possibly an underdriven pulley. thoughts?

The pump has a different connector but it’s just power, ground, and signal. I’d definitely recommend getting it with the connector & pigtail right from Tecomotive. Make sure your wiring, relay, etc can all handle 15 amps.

[ZLElvira]

Originally Posted by Camfab

Hey Dave, looks like you’re on to something. When you say you’ll make your own units, are you a heat exchanger manufacturer, or do you mean some one will make them for you. I was curious because you said the CSF units were junk. Good luck.

I bought the CSF Aux HXs before ever even removing mine or seeing in-depth what they looked like outside of the car. I bought their bar & plate oil coolers for the Porsche RSR which is what I am using for my car... I mean, if you are cooling a BEAST like an RSR Porsche that ONLY has oil for cooling an engine strapped with twin turbos and plumbed from 12 feet of hose in both directions, its gonna work better than the GM truck junk stuck to our block... so I bought their AuxHXs based on my appreciation of their other products. As I stated in the post above, they simply do not fit at all to the OEM brackets, the tanks are not even remotely close to fitting well as the steel bracket support rub into the aluminum sides of the CSF tank, not riding on its lower pin support where there are rubber grommets designed to hold it.

I will probably build a pair of replacement tanks with Bung fittings on the top so I can add AN fittings, and then really come up with something more robust with more BTU rejection as I see how everything else I am changing flows.

The COOL FACTOR is that right here we have a Bi-Coastal effort to focus on cooling our cars... this is a huge win for everyone who is upgrading their ZL1 for max effort!

AND... Yes, I will weld them up myself. I actually think my welding is better, even with my Harbor Freight ProTig 205 which really doesn't disappoint!

[Camfab]

If you welded all three of those bungs you did a great job. Welding is my world

[JSH]

Okay The saga continues. Mine currently has a cwa400 with 1 in. lines and -12an fittings. I can't make the CWA 150 work without a major redo of my intercooler fittings and lines. Because it has 3/4-in inlets and outlets.
Dedicated Motorsports where I bought the 150 is recommending this EMP pump https://dedicatedmotorsports.com/rep...0-1607e3f3b4c5

Which looks like one mofo of a pump for my application

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by JSH

Okay The saga continues. Mine currently has a cwa400 with 1 in. lines and -12an fittings. I can't make the CWA 150 work without a major redo of my intercooler fittings and lines. Because it has 3/4-in inlets and outlets.
Dedicated Motorsports where I bought the 150 is recommending this EMP pump https://dedicatedmotorsports.com/rep...0-1607e3f3b4c5

Which looks like one mofo of a pump for my application

-12 AN fitting is only 3/4” anyway…

[NicKey]

Couldn't you just use a reducer? https://www.amazon.com/ICT-Billet-In.../dp/B084KJM4SL One of oour local resident engineers would need to determine if this could cause cavitation?

[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Originally Posted by ZLElvira

This is a fun thread!! It has definitely been exciting to see the engineering we all enjoy to make our cars better!!

On my car, the focus is road racing... so everything is about cooling the SC system with airflow management coupled with coolant/flow/pressure management. Too big of a pump will certainly lead to not enough saturation by the heat exchanger to remove the BTUs needed to effectively keep the MATs down to stop robbing timing/power from the engine. I'm not going to add 2-3 tanks to band-aid a poorly designed system... you do not see multiple tanks on the ZR1 with 1064hp on 93oct pump gas!! What you do see, when you get to see one is a single expansion tank JUST LIKE the one I put on my ZLE so the pump can always have a pressure inlet and zero cavitation... AND, if you consider that system runs from the Mid-Engine twin heat exchanger bricks to the front of the car's HX and back again.

Gabe, I applaud your getting CSF to make an Aux HX with ORBs instead of just the 5/8" quick fittings but their tanks are junk. I pony'd up and bought ONE just so I could see that it doesn't fit the OEM bracket worth AF and is it really worth $450+ just to get TWO MORE cooling tubes? A real upgrade would be to go to a bar & plate design, dual-bypass and have the pump pickup from the bottom of the cooler, not the top (heat rises). I guess I will make those too!

BTW, later today I will have a short video on my YouTube channel featuring my new SC Main HX which is now the largest capacity unit, fits within the OEM brackets and a true bolt-on. It will yield 100% area saturation and features a topside port to eliminate all air automatically with plumbing installed as I designed.

Unfortunately, I don't think doing a bigger HX is the answer. That is the reason I made this thread. I have done everything and still have supercharger/MAT issues on track.

I have upgraded main HX, upgraded aux HX, a chiller system (which is more effective than any aftermarket HX), fender tank, expansion tank (directly feeding the supercharger pump, zero chance of air in the system), run the car on E85, and GMS front crash bar delete. With all of this my MAT's still hit 170 degrees on track. (granted this was on a 100 degree day with high humidity and don't have issues in cooler weather). With all that being said, my system works perfectly.

When my car hit 170 degrees and pulled timing, I pulled off the track, popped my hood and felt my expansion tank. The coolant was cold to the touch and there was condensation on the cap/crossover pipe. So if my coolant is 80 degrees, but my MAT's are still hitting 170+ degrees, The problem isn't removing heat via the heat exchangers.

The issue is removing the heat from the supercharger bricks efficiently. There are upgraded bricks, but not sure how well they work. The only other thing I can think of is removing restriction and increasing flow in the supercharger cooling loop. Deleting the crossover pipe and adding a higher flow pump will be my next steps. (or I might just say F it and not track my car in the summer anymore)

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by NicKey

Couldn't you just use a reducer? https://www.amazon.com/ICT-Billet-In.../dp/B084KJM4SL One of oour local resident engineers would need to determine if this could cause cavitation?

Reducing the pump outlet raises pump head and system velocity. Not a problem if the pump is still operating where you want it to be in its performance curve.

Reducing the pump inlet is not advised as it typically leads to cavitation.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Rapid_blue_zl1_22

Unfortunately, I don't think doing a bigger HX is the answer. That is the reason I made this thread. I have done everything and still have supercharger/MAT issues on track.

I have upgraded main HX, upgraded aux HX, a chiller system (which is more effective than any aftermarket HX), fender tank, expansion tank (directly feeding the supercharger pump, zero chance of air in the system), run the car on E85, and GMS front crash bar delete. With all of this my MAT's still hit 170 degrees on track. (granted this was on a 100 degree day with high humidity and don't have issues in cooler weather). With all that being said, my system works perfectly.

When my car hit 170 degrees and pulled timing, I pulled off the track, popped my hood and felt my expansion tank. The coolant was cold to the touch and there was condensation on the cap/crossover pipe. So if my coolant is 80 degrees, but my MAT's are still hitting 170+ degrees, The problem isn't removing heat via the heat exchangers.

The issue is removing the heat from the supercharger bricks efficiently. There are upgraded bricks, but not sure how well they work. The only other thing I can think of is removing restriction and increasing flow in the supercharger cooling loop. Deleting the crossover pipe and adding a higher flow pump will be my next steps. (or I might just say F it and not track my car in the summer anymore)

I suspect you could have went with a Maggie 2650 or Whipple 3.0, added a decent HX, and would be much better off than you are now. The brick cooling capacity of these two blowers is worlds better than the stock blower.