IT LIVES! My Z/LE ZL1 + 1LE + 2SS = Z/LE ;o) LSA SC [COTW 2/09/15]

[hammdo]

So, I'm moving the coolers around. This time I moved the Power Steering cooler here:



I'm moving the 2 smaller hx lower. Here I've tested the fit with the bumper:





This fits better, less hose to run, and allows me to run in parallel!

I'm going to split the input and output to be in parallel (RD will get part of the flow, the duals the next) and adding another Varimax for the Duals to keep the flow up).

I have a few more items coming in tomorrow. Hopefully, I can get this done before the rain gets here on Thursday!

-Don

[hammdo]

OK, added the mounts and split the flow! This looks like it will work better. Here is the layout:















Look from below all mounted:






Purging the air out of the system. Ran it several times and the flow is much better than how I had it before. Because of the way the flow is with this setup, I'm going to hold off the '3rd' Varimax for a bit so I can test with this. I also notice that water wetter seems to foam a bit more -- I only added 1 oz this time to see what that would do. Hardly any Water Wetter in a Gallon of anti-freeze mix (80/20) -- just one oz...

BTW, In order to install the Dual HX in the 'lower' area, I had to remove the JDP tow hook and the bottom radiator shroud. I do have the ZL1 Addons version tow hook so, that will be next!


-Don

[hammdo]

OK, everything is back together.

One more purge of the intercooler and test -- ready for the tow hook.

I installed the ZL1 Addons tow hook next. There are already threads on this one, but, I do suggest you should do the following:

1) Make a copy of the template for drilling the 1" hole -- just in case and drill pilot holes!
2) After drilling out the 1" hole, just let the drill-bit on the hole saw 'mark' the location on the bumper for the 3/4" hole that needs to go into the bumper.
3) Drill the 3/4" hole just after you've verified the bit 'marked' the bumper.
4) I'd take off the bumper -- its just easier to see what you're doing.
5) You may need to 'size' the back locking plate (there are 2 plates for the front bumper, the one for the tow hook, the other that holds the locking plate in place). I had to 'size' mine a bit as the bumper I have was not exactly the same size.

USE hole saws with WD 40 -- its easier.

Hole cut in the lower section:



3/4" hole marked to be cut in the bumper:



Cut:



Before I put the bumper back on, you'll see how this fits:

I found it easier to put the tow hook in while I lined up the locking bolt/plate:





Cleaned up things, and re-installed the bumper. Here it is all setup:



I do have the ZL1 addons license plate so I'll add that after the test drive...

This gave me more room for my Dual Lower HXs. Overall, not too bad. I did notice my bumper may be a bit different than the ZL1 as I had to manipulate the plates to make them fit in the cavity...

Re-torqued the wheels, re-tightened the exhaust just to be sure (since its new...)

Next, test drive!

-Don

[hammdo]

Test Drive!

Here is the ambient temp (Ambient Air) vs IAT2 temp (Intake Air °F) as read by the ECM:



This is after 35 minute drive (75 to 79 mph) and letting it warm up and sitting in some traffic too! Total drive tonight was 50 minutes -- did great...

I'd say that is not bad @ all!

The real test will be when its HOT ;o)

But @ least this appears to be much better....

Car drove great, everything is settling in nicely...

The Jannetty Trans Dipstick should be in tomorrow. As long as the weather gives me a break, I'll get that in next.

-Don

[hammdo]

The Jannetty Transmission tube/dipstick came in today!

Very nice setup indeed.

So lets get this out of the way:

The dipstick is out of these model years (note the part number on my stick is now obsolete (15877378) and superseded (24267668):

Cadillac ESCALADE 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
Chevrolet AVALANCHE 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
Chevrolet Silverado 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
Chevrolet Silverado 2500 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
Chevrolet Silverado 3500 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
Chevrolet SUBURBAN 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
Chevrolet Suburban 2500 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
Chevrolet Tahoe 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
GMC Sierra 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
GMC Sierra 2500 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
GMC Sierra 3500 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
GMC YUKON 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014

INDICATOR. Transmission Oil Filler
Part Number: 24267668 ; 15877378
INDICATOR,TRANS FLUID LVL

A good price is $17

Next comes the tube seal:

SEAL. Transmission Oil Filler (Pack of 10)
Part Number: 15796802 ; 24227883
(Pack of 10)

SEAL,TRANS FLUID FIL TUBE.

Pack of 10 is $43 -- unless you have a source, you buy a bag of 10.

So right there you're @ $60 and didn't get the tube!

Now, the tubes vary between $10.30 and $35.

If you got lucky, you still need to make it fit.

So, what Ted has done is solved all of that for you. There is a custom bracket welded onto what looks like a custom bent tube -- which are setup to make sure it fits our transmissions (6L80/6L90). It is also setup to measure the correct fluid level right off the bat! The bracket will use the bolt just above the starter area of the transmission. That bolt should be torqued to 30 to 35 ft lbs once the tube is installed in the transmission.

Overall, I did the cost and it would not be worth it for me to source the parts and try to make it fit (if I just bought the dipstick, 1 filler tube seal, and the higher priced tube + shipping, I'd still need a way to make it all fit and hope it would snake up to be in the correct location).

Here are the pics:

All together:



Dip stick measurement:



Details on the 'temp' to read are on the dipstick -- couldn't get a good pic of that.

Next the dipstick locking mechanism:



Looks factory and I'd expect a very nice install -- that will come as soon as I can get the rain to slow or stop here (calling on my psychic powers)...

-Don

[QUICRNU]

I got my Dipstick in too! Tired of the Lokar for sure.

What size and BTU were your lower dual HX's again? Im sorry I must have missed it.

[hammdo]

11.5 x 5.75 x 2 thick, with thermal black paint. I believe 16000 BTU per unit.

Can't wait to do the dip stick. Was ok with the B&M but really like the Jannetty version so far!

-Don

[hammdo]

Just finished the install of the Jannetty Trans Dipstick assembly. Really nice setup.

So, a couple of things to note:

I have headers and the O2 extensions so I had to maneuver them along with the wire harness that is just above the location where the tube goes in.

First, I remove the B&M dipstick and cleared the area (note, I removed the sparkplug wire on #8)



then, while underneath, I move the wire harness up to give the tube clearance:



With the tube in, that wire is going nowhere...

next, I applied a little trans fluid to the seal and placed it back on the tube:



Next, I removed the one bolt on the bellhousing right above the starter:



Once the bolt was removed, from the bottom, I manipulated the tube so it would make its way to the engine bay -- you just have to fish it up there, making sure all wires are cleared and no impediments. I'd consider 'taping over' the opening at the top (my engine bay is pretty clean but as a precaution its not a bad idea):



With that partially located, verify wires are cleared, nothing pinching around the headers, then slide the tube seal and tube inside the opening in the transmission -- make sure it bottoms out (Notice I pushed the wires up and out of the way of the dipstick tube?):



Now bolt in the bracket (tighten the bolt 30 to 35 ft lbs per Ted) -- notice the starter wires and how close they are to the bracket?:





I then ti-wrapped the wires and connectors to keep them away from the header:



Put in the dips stick (notice I rotated it 180° to keep it out of the way):



Verified everything and fired it up!

NO LEAKS and this works 100x better than the previous setup -- WELL worth the effort.

Overall, took me about an hour since I had to remove the B&M version (and while I was at it, replace the cabin filter since I was in there).

GREAT product and install was not bad @ all! Looks like it will read the level just fine -- I just need to test it properly by getting the temps up -- weather sucks right now so I'll probably have to just let the car run for a while and ck it then.

My only issues were the spark plug wire is just touching the tube -- but I think a small correction on it will fix that. I'd also consider 'notching' the bracket for the starter wires, just to give a bit more room there -- but these are the ONLY things I've found. I'd also consider adding a hole in the bracket so a tiewrap can be used too (maybe 2 holes)...

-Don

[hammdo]

Here is a shot of the 'cold full' level check -- spot on -- I have 9 qts in my setup -- accounting for the B&M Transmission pan and oil cooler. Nice to know this is right there (laying the stick down did make the cold full mark move just a bit)!



-Don

[hammdo]

Originally Posted by JOHNSONROD

Hey Don,
are you running that PS cooler in addition to the factory cooling or in place of it?

Danny, I just looked to see if the A6 has a power steering cooler. I checked under the condenser and no, it does not appear to have one under the condenser that I can see -- unless its the small set of rows in the lower part of the condenser -- that may be it but I don't see a separate one...



-Don

[QUICRNU]

My 2010 A6 has the Power Steering Cooler in the lower part of the condenser as you stated. It would be the top left fitting on the condenser in that pic, and another on the other side.

[QUICRNU]

Originally Posted by hammdo

11.5 x 5.75 x 2 thick, with thermal black paint. I believe 16000 BTU per unit.

Can't wait to do the dip stick. Was ok with the B&M but really like the Jannetty version so far!

-Don

Thanks for the info Don, great job on the dipstick install.... I am cheating....my engine is all torn down and I am dropping the trans for the stall converter, so my dipstick install might be a little easier than yours!

Curious, on your HX setup, would 2 of the B&M 11 x 8 x 1.5 fit in the lower grill area where you mounted the 2 smaller ones? Cant mach mine up right now with it all apart.

Thanks again

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by hammdo

Just finished the install of the Jannetty Trans Dipstick assembly. Really nice setup.

So, a couple of things to note:

I have headers and the O2 extensions so I had to maneuver them along with the wire harness that is just above the location where the tube goes in.

First, I remove the B&M dipstick and cleared the area (note, I removed the sparkplug wire on #8)



then, while underneath, I move the wire harness up to give the tube clearance:



With the tube in, that wire is going nowhere...

next, I applied a little trans fluid to the seal and placed it back on the tube:



Next, I removed the one bolt on the bellhousing right above the starter:



Once the bolt was removed, from the bottom, I manipulated the tube so it would make its way to the engine bay -- you just have to fish it up there, making sure all wires are cleared and no impediments. I'd consider 'taping over' the opening at the top (my engine bay is pretty clean but as a precaution its not a bad idea):



With that partially located, verify wires are cleared, nothing pinching around the headers, then slide the tube seal and tube inside the opening in the transmission -- make sure it bottoms out (Notice I pushed the wires up and out of the way of the dipstick tube?):



Now bolt in the bracket (tighten the bolt 30 to 35 ft lbs per Ted) -- notice the starter wires and how close they are to the bracket?:





I then ti-wrapped the wires and connectors to keep them away from the header:



Put in the dips stick (notice I rotated it 180° to keep it out of the way):



Verified everything and fired it up!

NO LEAKS and this works 100x better than the previous setup -- WELL worth the effort.

Overall, took me about an hour since I had to remove the B&M version (and while I was at it, replace the cabin filter since I was in there).

GREAT product and install was not bad @ all! Looks like it will read the level just fine -- I just need to test it properly by getting the temps up -- weather sucks right now so I'll probably have to just let the car run for a while and ck it then.

My only issues were the spark plug wire is just touching the tube -- but I think a small correction on it will fix that. I'd also consider 'notching' the bracket for the starter wires, just to give a bit more room there -- but these are the ONLY things I've found. I'd also consider adding a hole in the bracket so a tiewrap can be used too (maybe 2 holes)...

-Don

Awesome write up, One change I would suggest, install the seal in the trans case, then install the tube.

[hammdo]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Awesome write up, One change I would suggest, install the seal in the trans case, then install the tube.

I tried that and with the limited sight, was concerned the tube would cut the inside of the seal as the tube was at a slight angle when I tried that. It really went in easy with the seal on the very end of the tube.

Thanks!

-Don