[Christian1LE]

Good info, I will replace mine at the end of this year then. I will just add my 2 cents though because I've reused all of my bolts and have never had one break on me. I've done 13 track days since installing the lockout kit and it's been 4 months. And I reused all my bolts up front that are TTY for 2 years without issues (I replaced them after 2
years).

I will check them for tightness before my next trackday. It's possible it was overtightened or that they just do need to be replaced.

[That1guy_tim]

Originally Posted by cdrptrks

Yes the 1 bolt that locks out the factory toe adjustment point on each side is included.

I would highly recommend replacing the 1 OEM outer toe link to knuckle bolt on each side as they're TTY. Also I'd recommend using the torque + angle from the shop manual (74 lb ft + 105°) rather than just 74 lb ft recommended in the SPL directions especially if reusing the bolts (which again I don't recommend). Either way, it is very important to put a wrench or socket/ratchet on these bolts regularly to make sure they're not coming loose to prevent a snapped bolt like I experienced last year. One more session on track that day and I probably would have crashed but I got lucky that my bolt snapped at low speed leaving a gas station that night instead.

I'd further recommend using loctite both in the hole and on the threads although it is not called for in the shop manual. I used orange because red is a pain to deal with in my experience. I went with about 100 lb ft with loctite (vs. 132 lb ft dry with reused bolts to reach the specified torque + angle) and they haven't loosened after 5 track days.

*Paint pen markings don't accurately show tightness on this bolt because of the stuff sandwiched in between so don't make the same mistake I did of relying on those...make sure to physically check bolt tightness.

My installer reused my bolts and torqued them "to spec" (I'm guessing 74 lb ft with no additional angle). He advised that it would be a good idea to replace the bolts eventually but he said he used red loctite and that they'd done the same thing before on other cars without issues. My bolt snapped less than 3 months after it was reused when the SPL rear toe arms with eccentric lockouts were installed. There was only evidence of red loctite on one side but apparently it was only used on the bolt threads and not in the threaded hole because the bolt on that side was loose too but it hadn't snapped yet. I also reused this bolt once previously (only the side that I found loose but not snapped) with the stock toe link when I replaced a failed rear hub; I torqued it to the previously mentioned 74 lb ft + 105° that time and had no issues but the stock toe links probably put less force on the bolt because of the rubber bushing.

11609598 is the outer toe link to knuckle bolt part number. You will need one for each side.

jeeze, got lucky on that one

[cdb95z28]

I replaced my outer toe rod bolts with some metric 10.9 flanged hex head bolts from belmetric.com. Normal non-TTY bolt that can be reused.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

Good info, I will replace mine at the end of this year then. I will just add my 2 cents though because I've reused all of my bolts and have never had one break on me. I've done 13 track days since installing the lockout kit and it's been 4 months. And I reused all my bolts up front that are TTY for 2 years without issues (I replaced them after 2
years).

I will check them for tightness before my next trackday. It's possible it was overtightened or that they just do need to be replaced.

Supposedly that bolt is a design flaw for the camaros, and the bolt can snap on stock cars on the track. The GT4 camaros use a different hub to eliminate the issue. That specific bolt should be considered a consumable item and replaced yearly at the minimum.

[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by Slurpee

Supposedly that bolt is a design flaw for the camaros, and the bolt can snap on stock cars on the track. The GT4 camaros use a different hub to eliminate the issue. That specific bolt should be considered a consumable item and replaced yearly at the minimum.

Yes someone from SPL told me the same thing but in my case I think the bolt snapped because it was coming loose (as I found when replacing the bolt on the other side that hadn't snapped yet).

I suspect the SPL install directions to torque the bolt to 74 lb ft instead of 74 lb ft + 105° as mentioned in the shop manual might have caused my reused bolts to come loose over time especially since they were already stretched/yielded when originally installed with the higher torque + angle value at the factory.

[bptuner]

So there is no concern with the single jam bolt loosening? How often do you check them? I want to pull the trigger but am concerned about it loosening as the car does track days and street driving. If that bolt were to back out it looks as tho a catastrophic failure could happen when driving.

[Osbornsm]

Originally Posted by bptuner

So there is no concern with the single jam bolt loosening? How often do you check them? I want to pull the trigger but am concerned about it loosening as the car does track days and street driving. If that bolt were to back out it looks as tho a catastrophic failure could happen when driving.

Am i correct that this is the rear toe bolt where it meets the hub?


Want to verify what i need to double check!

~ Sean

[bptuner]

https://www.splparts.com/products/ca...c-lockout.html

The blue jam bolts (on all SPL parts) that keep the ends from adjusting/falling out of the center shaft. See instructions/warnings in install instructions below. 150in lb is the recommended Tq, but no mention of re torque needs. stock parts are solid makes me wonder if its for a reason.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/lpblz...qeasfpqdr&dl=0

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by Osbornsm

Am i correct that this is the rear toe bolt where it meets the hub?


Want to verify what i need to double check!

~ Sean

Yes it's the rear toe bolt to the hub. If you have the toe arms for over a year I would recommend replacing the bolt now. I do not know if you need another alignment. I just replace it before the season starts and I get my yearly alignment.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by Slurpee

Yes it's the rear toe bolt to the hub. If you have the toe arms for over a year I would recommend replacing the bolt now. I do not know if you need another alignment. I just replace it before the season starts and I get my yearly alignment.

Glad I saw this, I have not replaced these bolts. Considering the info here, ARP makes some high strength bolts in the correct size, not engine-specific.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...-1009#overview

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

Glad I saw this, I have not replaced these bolts. Considering the info here, ARP makes some high strength bolts in the correct size, not engine-specific.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...-1009#overview

Would they take the same torque plus angle? I am not familiar enough with ARP products which is why I just change out the TTY bolts.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by Slurpee

Would they take the same torque plus angle? I am not familiar enough with ARP products which is why I just change out the TTY bolts.

No, TTY are designed to permanently elongate a bit which is why you can't re-use them. The stretch negates some of the issues with friction in the threads when torquing... assembly lube, threadlocker, or anti seize will change the torque spec of regular bolts. TTY angle rather than torque spec ensures you get the correct tension in the bolt regardless of thread friction.

I replaced all my TTY bolts when installing the ZLE subframe bushings but I did not replace the bolts when installing the SPL toe arms, which was a mistake, and now hearing it can break it seems like it might be a big mistake. The ARP bolts have a 180 ksi tensile strength, grade 8 is 150 ksi, so they are plenty strong but will need to be torqed normally, ARP gives a 98 ft lb spec for these bolts. In addition, I'll use some threadlocker.

If nobody had an issue with the bolts breaking I'd just go OEM TTY, but if they need to be replaced annually and they are known to break, then the bolt is too close to failure for my tastes.

Metric grade 10.9 will work too, they are about the same as grade 8 SAE. ARP are really well made bolts though, and at most places online buying 2 M12 bolts and shipping came out close to the 5-pack of ARPs at Summit. I had a 10% off Summit coupon and also free shipping since I also bought motor oil for the next change.

[Slurpee]

krops, does the SPL front endlinks work with MCS? Looks like you had to return a set, but can't tell if it's front or rear.

[Christian1LE]

Originally Posted by cdrptrks

Yes the 1 bolt that locks out the factory toe adjustment point on each side is included.

I would highly recommend replacing the 1 OEM outer toe link to knuckle bolt on each side as they're TTY. Also I'd recommend using the torque + angle from the shop manual (74 lb ft + 105°) rather than just 74 lb ft recommended in the SPL directions especially if reusing the bolts (which again I don't recommend). Either way, it is very important to put a wrench or socket/ratchet on these bolts regularly to make sure they're not coming loose to prevent a snapped bolt like I experienced last year. One more session on track that day and I probably would have crashed but I got lucky that my bolt snapped at low speed leaving a gas station that night instead.

I'd further recommend using loctite both in the hole and on the threads although it is not called for in the shop manual. I used orange because red is a pain to deal with in my experience. I went with about 100 lb ft with loctite (vs. 132 lb ft dry with reused bolts to reach the specified torque + angle) and they haven't loosened after 5 track days.

*Paint pen markings don't accurately show tightness on this bolt because of the stuff sandwiched in between so don't make the same mistake I did of relying on those...make sure to physically check bolt tightness.

My installer reused my bolts and torqued them "to spec" (I'm guessing 74 lb ft with no additional angle). He advised that it would be a good idea to replace the bolts eventually but he said he used red loctite and that they'd done the same thing before on other cars without issues. My bolt snapped less than 3 months after it was reused when the SPL rear toe arms with eccentric lockouts were installed. There was only evidence of red loctite on one side but apparently it was only used on the bolt threads and not in the threaded hole because the bolt on that side was loose too but it hadn't snapped yet. I also reused this bolt once previously (only the side that I found loose but not snapped) with the stock toe link when I replaced a failed rear hub; I torqued it to the previously mentioned 74 lb ft + 105° that time and had no issues but the stock toe links probably put less force on the bolt because of the rubber bushing.

11609598 is the outer toe link to knuckle bolt part number. You will need one for each side.

Just checked mine before my next track day and it was loose. Saved me, ty.

I have spare ones in hand so it was easy to fix.