Ls3 Engine install - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

booneSS13 · 03-03-2016, 10:55 PM

Will be reinstalling the engine in my SS after having the the short block rebuilt. Me and my father removed the engine with a cherry picker, and it was kind of straight forward, not much different from a SBC other than the Trans cooler lines and the sensors of course. I've heard horror stories on the reinstallation side of it though. Especially when it comes to reconnecting the engine to the Trans.

Anyone have any experiences with this project and have some pointers to share? My engine will be a long block when I'm ready to put it in also

SeaCompiler · 03-04-2016, 12:19 AM

I pulled mine a year ago and used the following engine leveler to put it back in and mated it back up by myself, but it was just the block and no heads on yet. I could not imagine doing it without a leveler, it made it so easy. Just don't get in a hurry and take ur time. It will eventually mate up with minor twists and pushes. While u have the pan off, go ahead and tap it for an oil return line (3/4" hole as close to the top on drivers side as possible and tap it) and plug it in case u go turbo later and save you some headache.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1021/ holds 1500 lbs. Make sure ur bolts are strong enough and don't drop them when are unhooking it. U need to leave the intake off until it is in. Intakes are piece of cake. Tape everything.

booneSS13 · 03-04-2016, 01:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeaCompiler

I pulled mine a year ago and used the following engine leveler to put it back in and mated it back up by myself, but it was just the block and no heads on yet. I could not imagine doing it without a leveler, it made it so easy. Just don't get in a hurry and take ur time. It will eventually mate up with minor twists and pushes. While u have the pan off, go ahead and tap it for an oil return line (3/4" hole as close to the top on drivers side as possible and tap it) and plug it in case u go turbo later and save you some headache.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1021/ holds 1500 lbs. Make sure ur bolts are strong enough and don't drop them when are unhooking it. U need to leave the intake off until it is in. Intakes are piece of cake. Tape everything.

A leveler did make the job a lot easier. We used one removing the engine and like you say I don't think it's possible without one. You didn't have to use the bolts to pull the transmission to the engine? I've heard others on here had to do that and I wouldn't want to take that chance and strip threads

SeaCompiler · 03-04-2016, 11:26 AM

I used an engine hoist and once I had it lined up as close as I could get it and angled as well as I could so the engine was positioned as close to the angle of the tranny as possible (which I think is key), I kinda gave it a push and lightly twisted back and forth until I felt it slip over the splines and I saw the engine move closer to the tranny. It does not slide all the way and mate up flush, but once you know you are in the splines, I just inserted the bolts and cautiously ratcheted it down while observing it was moving closer without being hard to ratchet. The engine hoist made it easy to micro adjust the height, pressure, and the leveler helped with the angle. Once I knew it was on the splines, I made tiny adjustments using the engine hoist first by just feeling and observing and it came together easy. Just take ur time and have patience. If you get frustrated, take a break and come back later.

booneSS13 · 03-14-2016, 12:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeaCompiler

I used an engine hoist and once I had it lined up as close as I could get it and angled as well as I could so the engine was positioned as close to the angle of the tranny as possible (which I think is key), I kinda gave it a push and lightly twisted back and forth until I felt it slip over the splines and I saw the engine move closer to the tranny. It does not slide all the way and mate up flush, but once you know you are in the splines, I just inserted the bolts and cautiously ratcheted it down while observing it was moving closer without being hard to ratchet. The engine hoist made it easy to micro adjust the height, pressure, and the leveler helped with the angle. Once I knew it was on the splines, I made tiny adjustments using the engine hoist first by just feeling and observing and it came together easy. Just take ur time and have patience. If you get frustrated, take a break and come back later.

thanks a lot for the pointers very good information...how did you clear the overhang of the firewall with the cherry picker?

SeaCompiler · 03-14-2016, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by booneSS13

thanks a lot for the pointers very good information...how did you clear the overhang of the firewall with the cherry picker?

I don't recall it even being an issue. Of course, the hood was off the car. The engine leveler is in the middle of the engine block and the engine hoist just lowered it slowly and never hit the firewall with it or the chain. My heads were not on during the re-install, so that made it easier. I was not sure how much weight my bolts could take, so I played it safe. I did not have an engine mount and never took it off the hoist because all I was doing was retrieving the lifters. I cleaned the pan and painted it while I had it off - I wished I had drilled it for an oil return line while I had it off. I took some pics, but they are on my old laptop and I can't get to them right now.

Stephen12ZL1 · 03-14-2016, 09:20 PM

I did it also with a cherry picker and leveler with the transmission in position. It is tight but doable...I also did it by myself. Heads were off for more clearance and sight. My hood never came off either. It cleared by maybe an inch.

booneSS13 · 03-15-2016, 07:59 AM

When I pulled mine I had the heads off as well and barely cleared it with a leveler. That's good to know I can have the hood on. I'm wondering how difficult it will be to install it as a long block with everything on it besides the intake. I'm sure that's going to be tight! I found this useful video on how to do it was done.

https://youtu.be/tYo98wEiWuk

Stephen12ZL1 · 03-15-2016, 08:13 AM

pic

booneSS13 · 03-15-2016, 08:22 AM

Nice! What was your experience with connecting the engine to the transmission?

olblue75 · 03-15-2016, 12:27 PM

Seems like it might be easier to pull the tranny install the engine and then mount the tranny back up. But thats just my thoughts on it...

blake-b · 03-15-2016, 01:28 PM

I've installed mine for the third time. I haven't used a leveler. It is much easier to remove and install engine/Trans as one piece. It also helps to have the rear of the car higher than the front.

booneSS13 · 03-15-2016, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olblue75

Seems like it might be easier to pull the tranny install the engine and then mount the tranny back up. But thats just my thoughts on it...

that's why I pulledmy ttransmissionout iI figurediit's a lot easier to adjust the transmissionto the eengine that vice versa

booneSS13 · 03-15-2016, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blake-b

I've installed mine for the third time. I haven't used a leveler. It is much easier to remove and install engine/Trans as one piece. It also helps to have the rear of the car higher than the front.

how did you get it in there in one piece? Did you do that with the heads on? If I can do it like that that'sthe direction the I'll go

03-03-2016, 10:55 PM	#1
booneSS13 Drives: 2013 Camaro SS LS3 Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Davenport IA Posts: 718	Ls3 Engine install Will be reinstalling the engine in my SS after having the the short block rebuilt. Me and my father removed the engine with a cherry picker, and it was kind of straight forward, not much different from a SBC other than the Trans cooler lines and the sensors of course. I've heard horror stories on the reinstallation side of it though. Especially when it comes to reconnecting the engine to the Trans. Anyone have any experiences with this project and have some pointers to share? My engine will be a long block when I'm ready to put it in also

03-04-2016, 12:19 AM	#2
SeaCompiler ...not a marine biologist Drives: 2012 Camaro RY SS LS3 Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Clarkesville, GA Posts: 752 View My Garage	I pulled mine a year ago and used the following engine leveler to put it back in and mated it back up by myself, but it was just the block and no heads on yet. I could not imagine doing it without a leveler, it made it so easy. Just don't get in a hurry and take ur time. It will eventually mate up with minor twists and pushes. While u have the pan off, go ahead and tap it for an oil return line (3/4" hole as close to the top on drivers side as possible and tap it) and plug it in case u go turbo later and save you some headache. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1021/ holds 1500 lbs. Make sure ur bolts are strong enough and don't drop them when are unhooking it. U need to leave the intake off until it is in. Intakes are piece of cake. Tape everything. __________________ Forged 416 stroker Turbocharged with Huron Speed with Cam Motion custom grind,Tuned by Vengeance, 8psi, 25% PowerBond UDP, Ported TB, shaved heads, LS9 gaskets, chromoly pushrods, BT trunnions & dual valve springs, IWIS, Might Mouse CC, SJM Line Lock,, MSD 2-Step, ZL1 Rear End, ZL1 spoiler, Strut Brace, ARP bolts, Skip shift elim, A-Pillar Gauges, FR Style 41 20X10, 3 inch exhaust, blackouts, Lowered, Custom badges, Hines vents,RPI fender vents, Technostalgia Tail Lights, Metra Kit, Pioneer stereo, Morimoto RGB Halos, "The Great Awakening" on gab.com

03-04-2016, 11:26 AM	#4
SeaCompiler ...not a marine biologist Drives: 2012 Camaro RY SS LS3 Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Clarkesville, GA Posts: 752 View My Garage	I used an engine hoist and once I had it lined up as close as I could get it and angled as well as I could so the engine was positioned as close to the angle of the tranny as possible (which I think is key), I kinda gave it a push and lightly twisted back and forth until I felt it slip over the splines and I saw the engine move closer to the tranny. It does not slide all the way and mate up flush, but once you know you are in the splines, I just inserted the bolts and cautiously ratcheted it down while observing it was moving closer without being hard to ratchet. The engine hoist made it easy to micro adjust the height, pressure, and the leveler helped with the angle. Once I knew it was on the splines, I made tiny adjustments using the engine hoist first by just feeling and observing and it came together easy. Just take ur time and have patience. If you get frustrated, take a break and come back later. __________________ Forged 416 stroker Turbocharged with Huron Speed with Cam Motion custom grind,Tuned by Vengeance, 8psi, 25% PowerBond UDP, Ported TB, shaved heads, LS9 gaskets, chromoly pushrods, BT trunnions & dual valve springs, IWIS, Might Mouse CC, SJM Line Lock,, MSD 2-Step, ZL1 Rear End, ZL1 spoiler, Strut Brace, ARP bolts, Skip shift elim, A-Pillar Gauges, FR Style 41 20X10, 3 inch exhaust, blackouts, Lowered, Custom badges, Hines vents,RPI fender vents, Technostalgia Tail Lights, Metra Kit, Pioneer stereo, Morimoto RGB Halos, "The Great Awakening" on gab.com

03-14-2016, 09:20 PM	#7
Stephen12ZL1 Drives: '21 ZLE A10 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mechanicsville, VA Posts: 6,813	I did it also with a cherry picker and leveler with the transmission in position. It is tight but doable...I also did it by myself. Heads were off for more clearance and sight. My hood never came off either. It cleared by maybe an inch. __________________ '21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60' '17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold) '15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold) '12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)

03-15-2016, 08:13 AM	#9
Stephen12ZL1 Drives: '21 ZLE A10 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mechanicsville, VA Posts: 6,813	pic Attached Images __________________ '21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60' '17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold) '15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold) '12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)

03-15-2016, 07:59 AM	#8
booneSS13 Drives: 2013 Camaro SS LS3 Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Davenport IA Posts: 718	When I pulled mine I had the heads off as well and barely cleared it with a leveler. That's good to know I can have the hood on. I'm wondering how difficult it will be to install it as a long block with everything on it besides the intake. I'm sure that's going to be tight! I found this useful video on how to do it was done. https://youtu.be/tYo98wEiWuk

03-15-2016, 08:22 AM	#10
booneSS13 Drives: 2013 Camaro SS LS3 Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Davenport IA Posts: 718	Nice! What was your experience with connecting the engine to the transmission?

03-15-2016, 12:27 PM	#11
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,066	Seems like it might be easier to pull the tranny install the engine and then mount the tranny back up. But thats just my thoughts on it... __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

03-15-2016, 01:28 PM	#12
blake-b Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010 Location: KCMO Posts: 3,205	I've installed mine for the third time. I haven't used a leveler. It is much easier to remove and install engine/Trans as one piece. It also helps to have the rear of the car higher than the front.